A magic group of islands steeped in history and wildlife. This small group of Islands is positioned approx 40 miles west of the Outer Hebrides. Public transport to the Islands is non existent, so paddling out or chartering a boat are the only options. A must for sea kayakers, but I would recommend that any group should include 5 star kayakers in this area.
Hirta is the largest island and is home to thousands of seabirds and has one of the largest colonies of Fulmars in Great Britain. The Island was evacuated in 1930 by a government who thought the lifestyle too harsh. Later, an army missile tracking base was established and is still manned today. The National Trust for Scotland have undertaken a restoration program including the traditional cottages, old chapel and school. The Trust now offers working holidays which enables the restoration programme to continue.
A small group of us set out on a bearing from a point just south of the Sound of Harris on the Outer Hebrides. It was a grey day with no sight of St Kilda. Some calculations had been done the night before, taking into account the tide and weather conditions. This provided us with our bearing and estimated times for the crossing: ten to eleven hours.
Permission should be gained from the National Trust before heading out to St Kilda as it is a long way back if you’re not allowed to camp. In order to help preserve the Islands, camping is limited.
Sea crossings are not my most favoured aspect of sea kayaking as the hours are long and you defiantly need the ability to be able to switch off, letting your mind wander. But at the end it always gives you a great sense of satisfaction knowing that you have arrived under your own efforts.
As we approach St Kilda the impressive sheer rock faces and giant surrounding stacks can be seen on the horizon. Clouds form on the summits of Hirta; the wind causing them to form large windswept wedges whispering out to sea. Today the weather is stable, a paddle out in windy conditions would be foolhardy. We aim for Village Bay, a sandy bay offering some shelter when the wind is from the West but exposed to any direction of wind when there is a hint of Easterly. As you approach, Gannets increase in numbers. These birds must be one of the most gracious of sea birds. If you’re lucky you will see them diving for fish. Gliding along then suddenly pulling their wings in and plummeting into the sea like a streamlined missile. The Islanders used to pay their taxes in feathers and oil. The oil was boiled out of the fulmar sea birds and up to half a pint per bird would be yielded; the meat was made into stews. Even breakfast included sea birds, Puffin porridge was a local dish. Nothing was thrown away, the bones and leftovers were used as fertilizers to try and improved the quality of the soil. Potatoes were grown, but the amounts of vegetables were limited, as the environment is harsh and very windy.
The nearer we get, the more detail starts to appear. Every now and again the sun comes out and the Islands come alive. Hundreds of domed stone bird cleits can be seen dotting the mountain side. These were used to dry the salted seabirds. Some were used to store their climbing ropes, fowling poles and nets for catching the sea birds. It’s hard to accept that the inhabitants used to scale these cliffs for eggs and birds.
As we approach, the more observant you have to be. Keep an eye on transit lines as the tide does affect your final approach. Tidal streams are found off Dun Point and run in the area between Hirta and Boreray. A race can sometimes be found off the long rocky spit on the southerly end of village bay. This is a truly magical place; you can feel the history and become grateful to be a part of it.
We set the tents in a small sheltered field enclosed by a high dry stone wall just behind the old school house. The main village follows the natural contour lines of the mountain side that forms a shallow horse shoe shape. All the recent houses are built in a line running in a shallow curve along a partially stoned track. The stone buildings are low with black pitched roofs. All have chimneys and would have probably consisted of one or two rooms. The track runs up to a walled graveyard at the head of the village. Each house has a long strip of land that runs down towards the shore. The women were responsible for making hundreds of scarves from the Soay sheep. The sheep were never sheared, the wool was plucked and every household owned at least one spinning wheel.
Once the tents are up, we retreat to the Puffin bar after seeking permission from the officer in charge. “I got smashed in the Puffin” T shirts say it all. The bar is lively being the only area for visiting crews, yacht owners and army personnel.
You need to allow three days. One day to explore the Island by foot and two days to explore by kayak. Today the weather is nice and sunny and the forecast is for force three winds. Priority is given to a circumnavigation of the Island. We set off in a clockwise direction over to Dun. This long spit of rock with sheer cliffs to the southern side is actually an Island at high tide. Even on this first section there are caves to explore. A large arch allows you to pass through to the other side although timing the swells can be a problem. The cliffs on the Northern side have some soil cover and hundreds of Puffins can be seen. Puffins leave their burrows early in the morning returning in the evening; so if you want to catch them on land, timing is essential. It’s already 10:00 am and, as we paddle, large rafts of puffins are drifting on the sea. As we approach, some birds attempt to take off. A few have difficulty as they have already had breakfast. Wings flap at a great rate and the birds bounce along the water, some diving and others eventually taking off.
This is a key point of the circumnavigation. If a ground swell is running the passage through the arch will be restricted so the alternatives are to paddle around the end of the spit or if you’re lucky and it’s high tide you might be able to get through the passage that separates the spit from the main island. Your only other option is to paddle around the outside. Tide and wind off the point can make this very interesting. A race forms directly off Dun point and sometimes runs down the Southerly side of the spit. The wind direction is also an important consideration as you may not be able to paddle back around the point and are now committed to the full circumnavigation. From here you follow the cliffs down towards another island, “Soay”. The sea cliffs are some of the best in the British Isles. Deep water averaging over 1000ft runs all down this stretch of cliff. Any ocean swell hits the cliffs and bounces back; this can create some vicious clapotis. On calm days you will be able to get into some impressive rock formations, but on windier days or if swells are running you will have to keep well out. At the westerly point you have the option of paddling out round the Island of Soay or cutting through the gap to continue the circumnavigation of Hirta. Again no landings can be found so if you are a little tired, play safe and opt for the shorter paddle. Between the Islands there is a large rock arch and impressive stacks. As we paddled between the stacks a large seal is perched up on the rocks. He was so high that he had not seen us creeping up. Once he noticed me, I was right below him. I can remember hoping he wouldn’t panic and launch himself into the sea as I had visions of being sunk, it was a long way to swim home. Now Boreray comes into view. This is an island that lies further North and together with Stac Lee deserves to be left for day two. Paddling on we come to Glen Bay. This bay offers alternative shelter for visiting vessels, but would only be used in extreme cases. Paddle into the bay and you will find a cave entrance hidden in the cliff face. This cave goes deep into the cliff. The light goes; you fumble for your torch and just as you find it the water surface erupts, the noise is deafening. You are close to panic, low braces suddenly become instinctive! You have just disturbed some sleeping seals. Calm down, compose yourself, find your torch. You’re in an underworld “Neptune’s Kingdom”.
It’s worth taking a divers lamp as the water is clear and by shining it below the surface plankton, deep red and orange sea urchins and small fish can be seen darting amongst the rocks and seaweed. The glow of the torch illuminates the kayak hulls. Mysterious shapes can be seen in the depths of the cave.
Following the cliffs in an Easterly direction, you will come to an obvious corner. Weather permitting you will have the option of paddling between Mina stac and the Island or around the outside. This can be a windy spot; on at least two occasions visiting these islands I have had to paddle hard for about twenty minutes. Looking after No1 becomes a priority. This is when you start to wonder what you are doing? There is nowhere to run; you can’t turn back and no one will rescue you. The wind bends around the Island, the cliffs are at their highest, the wind usually increases and swirls around on this corner. Just keep going, hopefully the wind will start to drop as you head up towards the Northern side of Village Bay. On calm days this stretch can be explored, allowing you to paddle into caves and around rocky outlets. In the cave entrances and rock gullies you will find a good number of seals. If you’re there when the pups are young, you will find them high on the small shingle beaches.
The second day takes us out to Boreray. This involves a two mile open sea crossing from Village Bay out towards Stac Lee. A huge rock that forms one of the largest stacks I have ever seen. Stac Lee, Stac an Armin and Boreray tended to be reserved for collecting eggs as the residents of Hirta made a point of keeping the egg collecting area separate from areas reserved for capturing the sea birds. As you near Stac Lee you realize that the huge white areas are in fact years of guano and thousands of Gannets. This is the worlds largest Gannetry. The birds fly around the stack in their hundreds. Look up and you can’t believe the amount of birds gliding with their wings outstretched. The area of sky covered by birds is too great to see all at once. Boreray has jewels of its own; on the South East corner you will find a large cave. Paddle to the rear of the cave and if the tide is at the right height and the sea state lets you, you will find a passage large enough to paddle through which leads back out to sea. Looking out through the entrance of the cave must be one of my favourite sights; Stack Lee in all its splendour. The silhouettes of your paddling companions will set the picture off perfectly.
Boreray will not take long to paddle and if you’re lucky you will come across a large blow hole on the Northern side of the Island. When a small ground swell is running the trapped air and water is pushed out through a small hole in the rock under great pressure. Twenty minutes will fly past as you try to get as close as you dare. On completing the circumnavigation, it’s back to Hirta and a welcome drink in the Puffin. It’s now that you appreciate the freedom and just how lucky we are to sea kayak in these remote areas.
Useful contacts:
Uist Outdoor Centre 01876500480
www.seakayakouterhebrides.co.uk
The National Trust for Scotland 01463232034
Coast Guard Stornaway 01851702013
Nigel Dennis 01407762525
Good reading: The Life and Death of St.Kilda by Tom Steel
ISBN 0.00.637340.2
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